Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
